Choosing electric underfloor heating

Cable, mat or foil?

• Loose cable — you set the spacing, so it suits awkward room shapes and lets you hit a target output per square metre.
• Mat — cable pre-spaced on a mesh backing, the quickest option to roll out in square and rectangular rooms under tile.
• Foil — very thin, designed for floating floors such as laminate, engineered wood and click LVT where floor height matters. Foil systems are not for use under tile.

Sizing the system

Size to the free floor area — the area you can actually heat once the bath, WC, kitchen units and other fixed furniture are deducted. Never cut a heating cable to length. If you fall between two sizes, take the smaller one rather than trying to squeeze the larger in.

Thermostats, insulation and membranes

Every system needs a thermostat to control floor temperature, and its load rating must cover the total wattage of the cable or mat. Insulation boards under the heating cut warm-up time by sending heat upwards instead of into the slab. Decoupling membranes isolate tile from subfloor movement and, on some systems, hold the heating cable at the same time. Browse the underfloor heating range.

Floor finish and electrical work

Tile and stone suit underfloor heating best. LVT, vinyl, laminate and engineered wood are generally compatible provided the manufacturer's maximum floor surface temperature is respected. The final connection into a fused spur or consumer unit must be carried out and certified by a qualified electrician.